Athens-Wednesday 2nd day

I am going to describe today beginning at the end. I a  sitting on my very large terrace looking out at the rock of the Acropolis. The view, while not as dramatic, reminds me of the view from my room in  Giza looking out at the pyramid. I have just returned from dinner at a modern Greek restaurant recommend by the hotel. I think it was the best $30 dollar meal I have ever had. Greece is perfect for vegetarians (or pretend vegetarians). I had a Greek salad; vegetarian ravioli; vegetarian mushroom risotto and a half carafe of ouzo  all for 25 Euro including tip. Another reason to recommend this wonderful hotel. 

This morning I set out on foot to the Byzantine Museum but made a detour to the Temple of Zeus that was begun in the 6th Century BC but not really completed until the 1st Century AD. It is on the plain below the Acropolis and was finished by Hadrian, clearly to compete with and complement the Parthenon. Not much of it is left but the standing columns show that it was built on a grander scale than its famous model. The columns are much higher and there is a triple colonnade on the north and south sides instead of the usual double. A few hundred meters before the Temple is an arch dedicated by the people of Athens to Hadrian for building the Temple. 

I then walked to the Byzantine and Christian Musuem about a mile or so away, passing through the National Garden and walking by the Presidential Palace and Parliament, (No demonstrations today.) The Museum was empty except for a single school group of ten year olds. I guess I did not get my fill of Byzantine art in Istanbul. The collection here is mostly late icons and artifacts from the 14th century on. Nevertheless, there were many beautiful items here and it was, for me, a very worthwhile visit. 

I then walked through Syntagma Square (the main square of Athens) and through several winding ancient streets to meet my guide, Kelly (short for Angelica) Bourni, a friend of our neighbor Peter Embericos. Kelly accompanied me through the Agora and the various sites below the Acropolis, most importantly the beautiful Temple of Hephaestus, before taking the uphill climb to the top of the Acropolis. We went in the afternoon when there is practically no crowd; it was hot but not scalding. I won't describe the Parthenon or other structures on top of the Acropolis but I will say that it remains a very inspiring place. On the way down, we stopped at the Theater of Dionysius and then I headed back to the hotel. 

The Parthenon confirmed my opinion that the New Acropolis Museum is one of the finest in the world. It is built slightly off angle so as to be completely parallel to the Parthenon. I have been converted to those who believe the British should return the Elgin  Marbles. As I said yesterday, maybe a Labor Government in the next 100 years will do so.  

I did more walking today than I can remember doing in some long while.I am tired but happy.