Valley of the Kings and Luxor Temple

I am beginning to run out of adjectives!

I visited Luxor Temple at night while it is artificially illuminated. I had really no idea of its size. The area of the temple seems to me to be about the same as the Roman Forum but most monuments are standing. I know that the much of the Temple has been restored and re-erected but it is easy to see and “get” the plan. Monumental doesn’t do it nor does colossal even though there are several colossal statues of Ramses.  The Temple is primarily a New Kingdom creation spanning several dynasties with most of the work done under Ramses the Great. (By the way, I am sure many of you have thought about correcting the name to “Ramesses” or some other variation, but “Ramses” seems perfectly acceptable in is home country; I digress.) As I was saying, it is New Kingdom but there are Middle Kingdom remnants; there is a shrine to Alexander the Great with his portrait and cartouche; there is a Roman garrison area with a wall portrait of Romans in Togas from the time of Diocletian and building stones from all other periods. The obelisk in front of the Temple is in perfect shape without the pollution damage that the NY, Paris, London and Rome obelisks have suffered. The obelisk is one of  a matched pair; the other is in Place Concorde in Paris. The temple is approached by an Avenue of Sphinxes which is still being uncovered and which connects with Karnak Temple, a mile away. All in all, Luxor Temple is on the same breathtaking level  with Abu Simbel.

Early this morning we set out to the Valley of the Kings. The valley is barren and surrounded by bare mountains; no green whatsoever. There are about sixty discovered New Kingdom Tombs including the tomb of Tutankhamen and 19 other Pharaohs. We entered five or six of them, the most spectacular of which was Seti I’s, which is closed to the public. The carvings and drawings are fresh and colorful. One can only imagine the palaces, if these were the tombs! No cameras are permitted anywhere near the tombs.

           Tutankhamen’s  Tomb was uniquely found intact with all the contents on display in the Cairo Museum. The tomb, itself, is quite small since the King died unexpectedly young and had to use someone else’s tomb.

            After visiting these tombs, I am beginning to get the principal ideas expressed in carving and paint. I must confess that I didn’t get it at all from my readings or museum trips.  The ceiling paintings depicting the sun’s daily birth, death and rebirth matches the Isis, Osiris, Horus story and the Pharaoh’s own journey. The ceiling decoration complete with elongated goddess, stars and boats  is the direct forerunner of art deco (but I know that I am way out of my league here.)